Navigating North Through Vietnam

Given the number of tourists in Vietnam, especially of the independent traveler variety, there are a never ending slew of businesses geared towards booking tours, transportation and accommodation.

For a do-it-yourself traveler like myself, it’s a maze to navigate. From dealing with all the people trying to sell you something, to the language barrier, to the new culture and not being sure where to go next, all the while juggling the advice of fellow travelers its an exercise in patience and mental dexterity. Plus keeping straight all the price quotes in my head (they quote you prices here in USD when you have to pay in local currency while the eventual exchange rate varies from person to person).

Not wanting to commit myself to the Open Tour bus in Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi (basically its a hop-on, hop-off for the most popular destinations in the country), everywhere I arrived I needed to gather information on the cheapest, most effective way to reach my next stop. Should I take Open Bus point to point, go with a local bus or, in certain cases, take the train?

So during the course of my normal daily activities, I have managed to take a little time out to duck into as many travel agents and tourism offices as I can to arm myself with information. The more you ask, the easier it is to establish a baseline price from one point to another and then try to use that to negotiate a lower price. It doesn’t always work but at least I feel more comfortable when I book a bus ticket knowing I’m not getting completely ripped off. It just gives you a certain piece of mind. But as soon as I pull the trigger and book something, that’s it, there is no looking back and second guessing. You win some, you lose some, but you have to move on.

As a foreigner in Vietnam, it is very easy to follow the crowd on the popular Saigon-Hanoi route (in either direction) in terms of the Open Tour bus, the same hotels/hostels, the same tours and the same sites. I have tried as much as possible to avoid this to get a more unique experience.

As I get set to head to Hanoi, I think my results have been mixed. From a price perspective, taking the Open Bus from Dalat to Hoi An (via Nha Trang) to Hue and now to Hanoi, has been the most economical way of traveling as well as being quite comfortable (all the buses are sleeper-style meaning you can lay your feet out and recline the seat all the way back). That whole route cost me less than $40, which is cheaper than a sleeper berth in the train from Hue to Hanoi (my original plan).

I have stayed at nice, cheap hotels here in Vietnam. While not as cheap as hostels, it has given me a bit of a break after so much Couchsurfing in the Philippines and in Saigon. Don’t get me wrong, Couchsurfing has been great, but I needed a few days mainly to myself to decompress. Of course even the hotel rates are subject to negotiation (although my success here has been more limited than in other negotiations). So I spent a decent amount of time putting together short lists of hotels in each city through Wiki Travel, Trip Advisor, Hostel World and word of mouth from fellow travelers. Then I will selectively reach out until I identify the place I want to stay. And as I rented a motorbike in Dalat and a bicycle in Hoi An, I have been presented with further opportunities to shop around for the best deal.

Not to say that I have spent all my time bargaining and haven’t had my fair share of socializing experiences, especially with locals. In Dalat, I was walking along the lake when a group of locals shouted out to me to join their picnic. I happily obliged as they offered me rice crackers and beer, smiling as they practiced their limited English on me (and I practiced my even more limited Vietnamese on them).

 

joining in the local revelry in Dalat

Or in Hoi An, where I went for a pedicure and foot massage (don’t judge, my feet have been completely battered ever since my hiking adventure in the Philippines). The woman who runs the shop spent six years living in Phoenix so we spent almost an hour chatting about the US. She invited me out later that night for a bite to eat with some of her staff and they took me to a local food stall for a delicious bowl of Cao Lao noodles, a specialty of Hoi An.

 

my new friends in Hoi An…those noodles on the right were delicious and only about $1

 

In Hue, I managed to find (through a Couchsurfing contact) Hue-Enter, a local group of free student tour guides. Rather than risk local traffic by renting a motorbike or the trite group tours (which always feature a few stops so you can buy worthless trinkets), this was a great way to check off all the tourist hot spots while having a personalized tour guide who also helped me taste the local cuisine.

 

at Thien Mu Pagoda with my very knowledgeable guide

 

I was lucky enough to have a few mini-tours with four different guides and it was fantastic. These are young people who are knowledgeable and passionate about their city. They are incredibly friendly and are thankful for the opportunity to practice their English. I highly recommend it for anyone who visits Hue, especially if you want to customize your own tour or see something off the beaten path.

 

at Tu Duc Imperial Tomb

 

Other observations

• The imperial tombs in Hue were the highlight of the last few days, especially Khai Dinh. It’s architecture, blending styles east and west, is incredibly unique. If you visit Hue I definitely recommend it.

• Hoi An is as charming as they say. Yes, it is very touristy, but strolling through its old town takes you back to a different era. The nearby beaches are also pretty spectacular so its a place where you can combine cultural and leisure activities fairly easily.

bridge in Hoi An

beach near Hoi An

• Vietnam seems more Christian than I expected. Even though Christians make up no more than 10% of the population it feels like its more than that with all the large churches I have seen. Sure Buddhism dominates and temples outnumber churches but I was still surprised I guess.
• The noodles are fantastic but I’m struggling to expand my diet beyond them, especially without eating pork. However, each region or city has their own noodle speciality so at least I can try something new everywhere that I go.

local street stall preparing Cao Lao noodles

• Vietnamese women are dead set against getting a tan. They go out there in the blazing heat with long pants, long shirts and jackets just so they won’t get any sun. They prize fair skin at all costs. I’m not sure I could deal with all the heat although they handle it much better than I do. I think I grasp the cultural reasons why fair skin is valued but it is a stark contrast from what I’m used to.
• Vietnam comes in second place to Egypt as far as destinations on my trip geared towas tourists. It’s not early as bad as Egypt as far as having to bargain but everywhere you go you deal with tourist prices and hawkers trying to sell you something, anything. It’s very cheap so its hard to feel like you’re getting ripped off but it amazes me how much cheaper things are when I’m with a local.

Link to Vietnam pictures

The Adventure Continues…Up Next: Hanoi